The Other Chateau LaCoste

The Chateau at Lacoste is notorious because of two famous owners, the Marquis de Sade ("In order to know virtue, we must first acquaint ourselves with vice".) and Pierre Cardin ("We undress men and women, we don't dress them any more").

Both of them engaged in cultural activities at the Chateau; the Marquis de Sade with his notorious theatrical performances; Pierre Cardin with the Lacoste festival with music, opera and theatrical performances in July/August.

This blog is about another Chateau de LaCoste, 36 kilometres away on the other side of the river Durance near Puy-Sainte-Réparade, and its owner a very private Irishman by the name of Paddy McKillen. Mr. McKillen comes from humble Northern Irish origins but has made a fortune largely through investing in hotel properties including a major stake in London hotels such as Claridge's. Unlike the publicity seeking of the owner of the Chateau at Lacoste in the Vaucluse, Mr Mckillen is definitely low key - except when it comes to his commitment to the arts. His Chateau La Coste is not a carryover from the eleventh century, but a more recent vineyard property that he acquired in 2002.

Since then there have been many changes at the Chateau La Coste. There has been a major effort to upgrade the wines (much needed!) whose success will be judged over the next few years. But the most amazing are the changes that are making this into one of the most "must visit" places in Europe for those whose interests are in modern art and architecture. It is a splendid place to visit for an afternoon walk through the vineyards to discover the works of major artists and architects.

The overall project is under the direction of Tadao Ando, the amazing self-taught architect and artist who had previously been a truck driver and a professional boxer. He designed the Art Centre and several other features that fit into the landscape as though they were meant to be there.

Dominating the approach to the Art Centre is one of the late Louise Bourgeois' giant spiders that is perfectly sited here.

As one walks through the vineyards and surrounding woods one is constantly surprised by yet more works of art that, in general fit well into the enviroment.

The Chateau de La Coste is open every day of the week and on a sunny day is a magnificent way to spend two or three hours.

Returning to the Luberon by the (non-existant) autoroute

Returning from Switzerland to the Luberon, one has two real choices.  The first is to take the autoroutes from Geneva to Valence and then down the A7 (the Autoroute du Soleil - so named, presumably, because one can spend many hours baking under the sun in endless bouchons (traffic jams).

The alternative is to go to Grenoble and to continue on the A51 south until it dies a lingering death, descending from two lanes each side down to one and then finally expiring at Monestier-de-Clermont.  It is then 100 kms to Sisteron, where one again finds a living A51.  That 100 kms has been (and will undoubtedly continue to be) both a wonderfully beautiful winding road through magnificent mountain scenery, and, at the same time a source of endless debate between Provence and Paris, between economists, environmentalists and engineers.  There is no agreement on what the (potential) autoroute is supposed to do - to free the city of Gap from its enslavement in the Alps - or to provide another north-south road to enable Northern Europeans to go to the Cote d'Azur and Italy.  Long may the debates continue because we love this sinuous road with its dramatic mountains (but fortunately less tortuous than the Route Napoleon from Grenoble to Gap).

In comparing the two photos above, the choice of road is somewhat evident.

However in this 100 km stretch, there are not many towns of interest and few restaurants besides roadside "frites".  Even those restaurants that exist chose to close whenever one wants to eat.  We have however discovered a most unexpected source of good food in a very unlikely spot - Aspres-sur-Buesch.   This town of less than 800 inhabitants has had a chequered past with a Roman camp and a camp for assembling undesirables under the Vichy regime during the second world war before they were sent onwards in accordance with the instructions of their masters.  It also has several giant sequoias (Redwoods) for those Californians who are homesick.  But the Epicerie of Agnes and Bruno is definitely worth a detour.  Bruno, a native of Pertuis (the gateway to the Luberon!) is only too pleased to have you sample the local cheeses and mountain hams as well as share his philosophical thoughts.  Count on 20-30 minutes to choose supplies for a couple of days!

Back on the resurrected A51, the road becomes ecclesiastical as it passes the Penitents of Mees.

 These are the monks of the Abbey of Notre-Dame de Lure who were turned into stone by Saint Donat to prevent them from being tempted by some Moorish female prisoners who the monks, descending from from their monastery, had hoped to see as they were taken to from Mees to Arles.  The other ecclesiastical site is the Abbey of Gangobie - but that will keep for another day!

Lunch, Views and Sex Education

Le Castellas is a large farm at the end of the road (not suitable for a Ferrari) beyond Sivergues.

This is one of our favorite places to go at least once every summer with the grandchildren, children and others that are young at heart. A simple meal of goat cheeses, home cured ham, with plenty of bread and salad, washed down with wine and coffee eaten under huge spreading trees in the meadow at communal tables, surrounded by goats and/or pigs! With magnificent views in the midst of the Luberon mountains.

One is truly in the midst of nature, and while we were there, the pigs were doing what all animals are driven to do with no consideration for the audience. Those who are sensitive to Piggy Porn, should, perhaps, be prepared to look the other way....

Exporting the Luberon to the Alps

We have moved up to the Swiss Alps for a month in Chateau d'Oex. In order to reduce the withdrawal symptoms of leaving the Luberon, we brought with us plenty of fresh produce, obviously including Didier Challet's tomatoes and an adequate supply of melons from La Corrée - these are the best melons in France and we are lucky to be able to buy them direct from the farm. Incidentally, last month we found some of their melons on sale at the best fruit and vegetable stall in the market in Beaune. Obviously we had to bring a little wine from the wineries in our area and some Cotes du Rhone from Michel Tardieu.

The main challenge is to get from the Luberon to the Alps without getting caught up the endless traffic jams on the roads in France at the weekend. Driving through Sisteron and Grenoble provides a relatively calm and stress-free drive with some magnificent scenery.

Ruminations while by the Pool

Relaxing in the shade of our best producing olive tree (25 kilos in a good year) while breathing in the scent of lavender growing nearby, I couldn't avoid seeing the filament covered blue sky. Con trails from aircraft that had been torn apart by the high altitude winds ended up as this all pervasive but fine white cotton floating up above. While we have laws to prevent neighbors from growing trees that come over ones property, where are the laws to inhibit the hiding of beautiful blue skies by the intrusive planes that leave their own form of detritus behind.

Zurich to Barcelona; Moscow to Madrid; Paris to Tunis; London to Nairobi; do the sardine-packed inhabitants of these aluminum tubes realize that they are diminishing the enjoyment of thousands beneath them as they go to seek fresh pleasures? - Sounds like a grumpy old man talking.

While on the subject of olives, one of the deepest mysteries of the Luberon is the olive crop. While one tree may bear fruit prolifically, its neighbours may have a handful or even none at all. Everyone has their theories - one is better protected from the Mistral - there is not enough air circulating - there are unfriendly insects in the soil. Who knows - may be part of the glamour of olive growing is that there are no firm answers; they just don't behave like biscuits on a production line.

The Lourmarin Market -

Every Friday, it is market day in Lourmarin.

Like almost everything in the Luberon, it takes on different forms and colors according to the season of the year. In winter, it is a small intimate affair where almost everyone knows each other and it is the social meeting place to catch up with friends. In spring, it may be a mad scramble to get everything needed before the next heavy shower. In summer, it becomes a training ground for the upcoming rugby season as hundreds of visitors cram into the narrow streets and the stall-filled plaza. Yet, despite the multitude, it is still a magical place.

We have our regular favorites. Today we bought some really ugly tomatoes from Didier Challet, because we know they will taste great, like the rest of the fruits and vegetables that he grows. His stall is at the top of the steps in the plaza. At the bottom of the steps, we got some of the best lemon tarts you can find. We get roast ham and chicken from another regular. Another favorite stall holder goes down to Barcelona every month to collect spanish hams and we always get some from him.

Besides food, there are plenty of other things to see, admire or buy. Today we bought an additional copy of a photo we already have in our house to give to our daughter.

Either Jerzy Nems or his wife are usually at the market near the centre of the village and he takes some magnificent photos.

After finishing our shopping and chatting with a few friends, it is time to go to the center of the village to have a Pastis at the Cafe de L'Ormeau, a scene captured in several of Isirdi's paintings.

Blogging back to life...

Setting up The Luberon Blog when we moved here was a great idea, but we overlooked it in the turmoil of getting established in Provence. Hopefully I can now get back to my original intention with a few embellishments. I've decided to now aim to include our other travels and discoveries in Provence and elsewhere.

Summer 2011 has been a whirl, with relatively little time in Provence. Five weeks were spent in Italy with some time in Tuscany, Sicily and Umbria, culminating in an evening at the Opera in the Roman Arena in Verona.

After some time in Switzerland, we spent a week in Meursault enjoying wine and music despite the miserable July weather.  Thinking about wine, leads to a great Roman winemaking mosaic from Merida in Spain!

I will add some thoughts about a few of the wines and restaurants that we enjoyed.

We are back in the Luberon for a couple of weeks, now enjoying perfect weather, amazing fruit and vegetables and good company. We are also having to deal with many enquiries that have arisen because one of our guests wrote an article in the Air Canada "En Route" Magazine.

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